AHA, BHA & PHA

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AHA, BHA and PHA: choosing the right exfoliant

Three families of chemical exfoliant, ordered by how gently they work. PHA has the largest molecule and stays near the surface — the mildest of the three. AHA works on surface texture and tone. BHA is oil-soluble, so it travels into the pore itself. Korean formulas typically use them at lower concentrations than Western equivalents, which is what makes daily or near-daily use possible.

Which one for what

Blackheads and congestion. BHA, because it is the only one that gets inside the pore. Look for it in toners and pads rather than rinse-off products.

Rough texture and dull tone. AHA. Glycolic and lactic acid work on the surface, and pair well with niacinamide for tone.

Sensitive skin. PHA. Gluconolactone and lactobionic acid exfoliate slowly and hydrate while doing it.

After exfoliating. Always wear sunscreen. Exfoliated skin burns faster, and burning undoes everything you were exfoliating for.

Frequently asked questions

How often should I exfoliate?
Two to three times a week for most skin. Low-strength Korean pads and toners are often formulated for daily use, but if skin feels tight or looks shiny-red, you are overdoing it.
Can I use acids with retinol?
Not on the same night when you are starting out. Alternate evenings. Experienced skin sometimes tolerates both, but there is little advantage in rushing it.
What is the difference between PHA and AHA?
PHA molecules are larger, so they work more slowly and stay closer to the surface. They also hold water, which is why they suit sensitive and dry skin better.
Should I stop exfoliating if my skin is irritated?
Yes. Stop entirely, rebuild the barrier with centella and ceramides for two weeks, then reintroduce at half the frequency.

Featured exfoliants

  • Celimax Ji Woo Gae Cica BHA PHA LHA Toner PadView
  • Mary&May CICA Tea Tree AHA PHA Toner 200mlView
  • Centellian24 AHA Aqua Peeling Boosting AmpouleView
  • Centellian24 Madeca PHA Cleansing PadsView

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